Allergic To Hair Dye? – White Strand Color Plan

Could your hair dye kill you? Potentially, Yes is the frightfully alarming answer, proven grievously with few hair dye enthusiast deaths in the past. The most notorious chemical, reported to be responsible for causing allergic reactions in case of hair dyes is PPD, which stands for paraphenylenediamine, a color-enriching ingredient used in some at-home and salon permanent dyes. Millions of people can tolerate PPD just fine. But, there is a small percentage of people who can become allergic to it. The darker the dye color, from brown to black, the more likely it contains PPD. Mild to moderate reactions, such as irritation, swelling and redness, can progressively worsen with repeated exposures, to the point of anaphylaxis and death. Though in most cases any reactions at all is extremely rare.

Organic Misconceptions:

Safety conscious hair dye buyers assume that "natural", "organic" and "eco" hair dyes are PPD-free, but this is rarely the case. Currently there is no hair color in the market that covers all grey without PPD or PTD (henna, though PPD free, can't achieve the same effect). There is a glimmer of safe coloring hope courtesy of companies such as OCS, who make ammonia-free hair dyes, which require lower levels of PPD to make them work (an average of around 0.4% rather than the more common 2%), but some PPD remains, nonetheless.

100 Percent Safe Color Solution:

Age gracefully - Rock silver strands till the whole mane turns signature Carmen Dell'Orefice cloud of gleaming silver and white -Now that'd definitely be a statement crown. 

For some living au natural might work but, for some it maybe unacceptable and completely unappealing remedy. I for one believe in options and choices, hence I probed further to find a midway elucidation, which I offer you as relatively safe color blueprint.

The Midway Coloring Solution:

If you're not completely gray, try highlights and lowlights; the color is painted on gray strands (to camouflage them), so the dye doesn't sit on your scalp during the coloring process. Or you could, instead, apply demipermanent color to your gray ten minutes before you apply it to the rest of your hair. The extra time will allow the gray to pick up more pigment. Using an ammonia-free product that contains antioxidants will prevent your hair from being damaged from the added exposure to the dye. 

Try Clairol's Natural Instincts, a demipermanent formula that reportedly lasts through 28 shampoos.

NATUR VITAL Coloursafe is a PPD-free permanent home hair colorant that was launched in UK five years back. It contains 2.5-diamine sulfate a lesser irritant than PPD.

Red & Itchy Skin Emergency Tx:
  • Pop an antihistamine pill (Aerius). 
  • Apply a hydrocortisone based scalp lotion (Locoid scalp lotion) twice daily for 4-5 days and taper off. 
  • If the reaction is severe consult your doctor immediately.


Not All Moisturizers Are Created Equal - I Give You Dramatically Different

Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion is Now Even More Dramatically Different

Let me introduce you to the NEW & Improved Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+
(Middle East Launch Date: October 2013)

The News Is Dramatic.
Every 4.87 seconds someone buys a bottle of Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion. Now the iconic, “yellow genius” has been dermatologist-reformulated to deliver even more dramatically different results…

·      50% improvement in moisture for all day hydration without an extra drop of oil.
·      54% improvement in skin’s barrier-strength in 8 weeks without changing the famously velvety texture.

Why Does It Matter?
Together, these two improvements help skin keep in the healthy essentials and better resist environmental influences.  Introducing Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+.

The Big Question
Why change something that millions of people love and rely on daily as part of Clinique’s renowned 3-Step Skin Care System? “The world has changed. Skin care technology has changed. And so we have changed,” says Janet Pardo, Clinique’s Senior Vice President of Global Product Development.  Clinique is consistently researching new ingredients and technology to modernize its products and ensure clients receive the maximum benefits. Now more than ever, skin needs extra help.

To learn about people’s current skin care needs, Janet Pardo works closely with Clinique’s formulating dermatologists Drs. David and Catherine Orentreich, the son and daughter of the celebrated dermatologist Dr. Norman Orentreich who worked with esteemed magazine editor, Carol Phillips and the Lauder family to develop Clinique in 1968.

Drs. David and Catherine Orentreich run the Orentreich Medical Group in the same Fifth Avenue offices that their father practiced.  “The Orentreichs see patients of all ethnicities, skin concerns, skin types and ages from around the world. Patients were coming in more and more with manifestations they described as redness, itching, burning, breakouts, dryness, dullness…in other words; unhealthy skin. The dermatologists attribute these symptoms to one thing: a weakened barrier,” says Pardo.

There are a number of influences that can account for skin sensitivities, including environmental aggressors, climate change, traveling, lack of sleep, eating processed foods and coping with the stresses of daily life.  All of these culprits take a toll on the skin.  As a leader in treating dermatological concerns, Clinique felt a responsibility to reformulate the beloved and iconic Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion while preserving the qualities that made it so adored and essential to millions around the world.

Worth The Wait
It took six and a half years and a hundred formula trials to get the Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ just right. Clinique’s Product Development team worked together with Drs. David and Catherine Orentreich to review new ingredients and conducted meticulous testing before they approved “the one.”  The new formula underwent extensive clinical testing – the biggest Clinique has ever undertaken. 1,600 people of different ethnicities across 5 countries participated, including existing, lapsed and competitive users. The result:  Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ received the highest possible marks showing more than double the moisture levels with skin staying consistently comfortable and moisturized throughout the day. 

How It Works?
In order to accomplish its dual mission—to provide barrier strength and to boost the moisturizing efficiency, Clinique paired new formulating technology with ingredients that have a long dermatological heritage for efficiency and comfort.  Dr. Norman Orentreich insisted on using ingredients that work optimally with the skin.  Dr. David and Dr. Catherine Orentreich continue to advise using ingredients familiar to the skin because these are effective and are least likely to provoke irritation. 

The Barrier Repair Complex:
A blend of sunflower seed cake, barley extract and cucumber fruit extract that helps to strengthen the skin’s barrier, imparting resilience and resistance to environmental stresses to help achieve healthy looking skin.

The new moisturizing ingredients:
Hyaluronic Acid has been used in dermatology and medicine for years, and is well researched and proven effective as a moisture-binding ingredient. It occurs naturally in the body and helps skin hold onto moisture for improved hydration.

Glycerin is a well known humectant that attracts moisture to skin. Considered highly “hygroscopic,” it absorbs water from the surrounding air and thus contributes to the increased moisturization power of the new Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+.

Urea is a naturally occurring component in the production of skin’s own natural moisturizing factor (NMF). NMF ingredients mimic the function of healthy skin.

 “You can have the best moisturizer in the world, but if your barrier is not intact - moisture evaporates,” says Pardo. “The two actions, moisturizing and barrier-repair, go hand in hand.”

With improved moisturizing technology and new barrier-strengthening benefits, the new formula is Dramatically Different… but subtly done. So it is still the favourite yellow lotion with the same silky texture, it is now just Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+. 

The new Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ is a moisture drink that absorbs quickly and easily, leaving it smooth, soft and perfectly prepared for additional concern-driven serums and other treatment products. Or not. Many people find Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ just enough in itself.

Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ will be available in across Clinique counters in the Middle East. Recommended for Skin Types 1 and 2. Apply morning and evening after Step 2, Clarifying Lotion. By day, follow with a moisturizer or foundation with SPF protection.

Allergy Tested. 100% Fragrance Free.


Hyperpigmentation, Ethnic Skin, & The Skin Doctor

When it comes to procedures such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion, and laser therapies, fact is one size doesn’t fit all. And the final responsibility falls on the shoulders of the dermatologists; they should take special precautions when treating patients with darker skin.

In my current practice in Jeddah, I see at least few patients every day who are seeking treatment for pigmentary complications that have been caused by patient’s exaggerated genetic tendencies to pigment coupled with prior cosmetic procedures performed by other physicians. Some I can treat, and some are beyond repair.

If I were to sum up my clinical experience, I would tell all dermatologists that above all, be conservative and don’t be aggressive especially when dealing with ethnic skin. Follow special protocol while treating skin of color and take your time in taking the patient’s history and establish if they have pigmentation prone skin type. The most important part of talk with the patient is asking about reaction to prior procedures or surgeries and prior history of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Take your time and ask them about what they do, what their hobbies are, or if they spend a lot of time outdoors. And take into account the season. During warmer temperatures, consider superficial peels and be careful with lasers. Medium peels and laser resurfacing are more appropriate during cooler and cloudier seasons.

Special Precautions While Treating Skin Of Color:

Don’t perform chemical peels on patients who are using tretinoin. Never start with a high concentration fruit acid peel. Don’t do excessive layers. And don’t combine surgical procedures with peels in the same visit.

When performing microdermabrasion, don’t be too aggressive to avoid PIH, streaking, and scratch marks. Don't perform the procedure too close to the eyes. Avoid extremely sensitive skin and look out for pressure urticaria. Always start with the lowest strength and time interval.

With fillers, be careful with superficial placement since the colored material can be seen through the skin. Hyaluronic acid is safer, because it’s colorless and less risky to use. Be mindful that severe bruising can lead to hemosiderin deposition. Be sure that all your patients are using sunscreen.

For laser and light therapies, always do a test spot. Have a solid understanding of laser-tissue interactions. Be prepared if pigmentation problems develop, so that you can treat them early.

Treatment Options

Aggressive and early intervention is crucial in treating side effects from cosmetic procedures.

·      One of the keys to prevent hyperpigmentation is UV protection, whether it’s with sunscreens, cosmetics, antioxidants such as topical vitamin C and E, or systemic agents such as chloroquine, fish oil, or green-tea extract.
·      Several topical agents can be used to treat hyperpigmentation e.g. hydroquinone, hydroquinone combinations, glycolic/retinoid/steroid combination, or antioxidants.
·      Niacinamide is a great cosmeceutical skin-lightening agents that act as a vitamin exfoliant, reducing melanosome transfer.
·      Soy-protease inhibitors and glutathione also have skin-lightening effects.
·      Melanozyme, Melaplex, Lumixyl (oligopeptide), retinaldehyde, lactic acid, ferrulic acid, can be good alternatives to hydroquinone but always prescribe bleaching agents with a broad spectrum sunscreen.

My favorite method of treating pigmentary complications is to combine treatments. For instance, I combine peels with microdermabrasion; peels with laser; and fractional resurfacing with topical regimens. The procedures can be maximized with the topical regimens. The bottom line is watching out for the skin reaction and aggressive as well as early intervention for side effects.

There’s no way of predicting who will hyperpigment, unless you take a good history and remember two pearls to stay out of trouble: Be conservative, and don’t use aggressive techniques.