Green Revival For Lifeless Hair

Hair dyes, highlights and hot irons rule modern day well coiffured manes and over time most of us have realized that taking care of regnant hair is a complicated business. If you happen to be an ardent fan of hair grooming with all the newfangled paraphernalia attached with coloring, straightening and blow-drying, and your hair constantly feels dry, dull, frizzy, and unmanageable, then look no further to blame - aim your gaze directly at your bad hair grooming practices.

Want Healthy Hair? – You Need To Nip These Top Causes Of Hair Damage In The Bud:

·      Bleaching: Bleaching hair penetrates the cuticle with chemicals and removes your natural pigment. It changes the structure of your hair, making it more susceptible to damage. Once you bleach, you've altered the strength of your hair, making it weaker. To add insult to the injury, if you practice blow-drying and styling on top of bleaching, you can really damage your 'do, causing hair breakage, a dull look, and split ends.

·      Perms: Perming refers to either a chemical straightening or a chemical curling. It works by breaking the inner bonds of the hair and re-forming them back together in a different way. Like bleaching, it weakens the hair, leaving it dull and damaged over time so that instead of luxurious curly locks or shiny straight tresses your hair looks dry and brittle.

·      Highlights & Coloring: Highlights and semi-permanent dyes aren't as damaging as bleach, good news I know, but they aren't without consequences. They can also change the inner structure of the hair, causing a lackluster look and dryness, especially if you frequently color to hide roots or gray hair.

·      Flat Iron & Blow-drying: Heat causes temporary changes to the hydrogen bonds that hold hair together, and that can make hair look kinky and dull. Over time, the temporary changes can lead to more permanent damage especially if you tend to blow dry or iron on a daily basis.

·      Ponytails & Braids: Ponytails and braids can cause hair to break, particularly if your style is pulled tightly and if you wear it that way every day, permanent hair damage can occur. Braiding or putting your hair in a ponytail when it's wet can also cause damage because wet hair is more fragile.

·      Over-brushing: Think 100 strokes a day will make your hair shiny and full? Think again. Over-brushing your hair can cause split ends and breakage. With careless over brushing you can inflict too much consistent friction, which your hair might find difficult to handle. Cheap brushes don't help either, causing snags and tangles that are hard to get out and result in broken hair and split ends.

·      Over-shampooing: The goal of shampooing is to cleanse the scalp and remove oil buildup on your hair. But over-washing can wash away your hair's natural moisture that helps your hair look healthy, making your hair dry. Although a significant amount of research has gone into making shampoos beneficial for your hair, you can still get too much of a good thing.

My Flawless Hair Product Search

Slave to the grooming rhythm and hopeful for a hair revelation, each pilgrimage to the local/international pharmacies, I keep looking for miracle products that would transform my hair into luscious locks making bad hair days and frizz a thing of the past. When I was almost convinced that short of chopping my Rupunzel mane to a tomboy short there was no other option left, I came across Phyto hair products and guess what? I am still sporting long braids and flowy tresses.

Come Hither And Meet My Hair Hero - Phyto

Everyone knows that taking care of your hair means starting with the right shampoo. PHYTO has an amazing range of shampoos and conditioners that cater to so many different types of hair and are color-safe, paraben, and silicone free.

Trick to picking correct shampooing routine is, knowing what your mane needs precisely. I for e.g. have oily scalp and my long tresses are dried and damaged thanks to my color cravings and fascination with hair styling gadgets. To minimize the damage caused by my bad hair habits I use two kinds of shampoos simultaneously one to zap oil and cleanse my scalp properly and one to cleanse, condition and nourish my long dry, damaged and colored locks.

Phytocedrat Purifying Treatment Shampoo - For oily scalp

Intense hydration brilliance shampoo – For dry hair  - PHYTOJOBA

I have tried gazillion serums and hair nourishing products, one product that has won me over with first application is: SECRET DE NUIT. This miracle cream goes to work as you sleep to regenerate the hair fiber deep down. Upon waking you’d find hair is delicately scented, regenerated and protected. It is shiny, supple and manageable. I tested SECRET DE NUIT personally and trust me when I say upon waking, my hair looked and felt repaired, soft and regenerated.

Hydrating regenerating night treatment - SECRET DE NUIT plus it is a perfect companion to Phytojoba shampoo.

If the damage runs deeper - what to do?

Avoid harsh hair products and practices for one and if you’re suffering from hair fall and dandruff see a dermatologist and get checked for any health deficiencies or discrepancies. Any ailment or damage to the hair root eventually shows up as bad textured hair. If serum Iron or vitamin D are lacking take supplements. If any thyroid related problem lies in the background get it fixed by taking proper medications and keep the problem under wrap with periodic medical checkups.

Allergic To Hair Dye? – White Strand Color Plan

Could your hair dye kill you? Potentially, Yes is the frightfully alarming answer, proven grievously with few hair dye enthusiast deaths in the past. The most notorious chemical, reported to be responsible for causing allergic reactions in case of hair dyes is PPD, which stands for paraphenylenediamine, a color-enriching ingredient used in some at-home and salon permanent dyes. Millions of people can tolerate PPD just fine. But, there is a small percentage of people who can become allergic to it. The darker the dye color, from brown to black, the more likely it contains PPD. Mild to moderate reactions, such as irritation, swelling and redness, can progressively worsen with repeated exposures, to the point of anaphylaxis and death. Though in most cases any reactions at all is extremely rare.

Organic Misconceptions:

Safety conscious hair dye buyers assume that "natural", "organic" and "eco" hair dyes are PPD-free, but this is rarely the case. Currently there is no hair color in the market that covers all grey without PPD or PTD (henna, though PPD free, can't achieve the same effect). There is a glimmer of safe coloring hope courtesy of companies such as OCS, who make ammonia-free hair dyes, which require lower levels of PPD to make them work (an average of around 0.4% rather than the more common 2%), but some PPD remains, nonetheless.

100 Percent Safe Color Solution:

Age gracefully - Rock silver strands till the whole mane turns signature Carmen Dell'Orefice cloud of gleaming silver and white -Now that'd definitely be a statement crown. 

For some living au natural might work but, for some it maybe unacceptable and completely unappealing remedy. I for one believe in options and choices, hence I probed further to find a midway elucidation, which I offer you as relatively safe color blueprint.

The Midway Coloring Solution:

If you're not completely gray, try highlights and lowlights; the color is painted on gray strands (to camouflage them), so the dye doesn't sit on your scalp during the coloring process. Or you could, instead, apply demipermanent color to your gray ten minutes before you apply it to the rest of your hair. The extra time will allow the gray to pick up more pigment. Using an ammonia-free product that contains antioxidants will prevent your hair from being damaged from the added exposure to the dye. 

Try Clairol's Natural Instincts, a demipermanent formula that reportedly lasts through 28 shampoos.

NATUR VITAL Coloursafe is a PPD-free permanent home hair colorant that was launched in UK five years back. It contains 2.5-diamine sulfate a lesser irritant than PPD.

Red & Itchy Skin Emergency Tx:

• Pop an antihistamine pill (Aerius). 
• Apply a hydrocortisone based scalp lotion (Locoid scalp lotion) twice daily for 4-5 days and taper off. 
• If the reaction is severe consult your doctor immediately.

 

Not All Moisturizers Are Created Equal - I Give You Dramatically Different

Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion is Now Even More Dramatically Different

Let me introduce you to the NEW & Improved Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+

(Middle East Launch Date: October 2013)

The News Is Dramatic.

Every 4.87 seconds someone buys a bottle of Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion. Now the iconic, “yellow genius” has been dermatologist-reformulated to deliver even more dramatically different results…

·      50% improvement in moisture for all day hydration without an extra drop of oil.

·      54% improvement in skin’s barrier-strength in 8 weeks without changing the famously velvety texture.

Why Does It Matter?

Together, these two improvements help skin keep in the healthy essentials and better resist environmental influences.  Introducing Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+.

The Big Question

Why change something that millions of people love and rely on daily as part of Clinique’s renowned 3-Step Skin Care System? “The world has changed. Skin care technology has changed. And so we have changed,” says Janet Pardo, Clinique’s Senior Vice President of Global Product Development.  Clinique is consistently researching new ingredients and technology to modernize its products and ensure clients receive the maximum benefits. Now more than ever, skin needs extra help.

To learn about people’s current skin care needs, Janet Pardo works closely with Clinique’s formulating dermatologists Drs. David and Catherine Orentreich, the son and daughter of the celebrated dermatologist Dr. Norman Orentreich who worked with esteemed magazine editor, Carol Phillips and the Lauder family to develop Clinique in 1968.

Drs. David and Catherine Orentreich run the Orentreich Medical Group in the same Fifth Avenue offices that their father practiced.  “The Orentreichs see patients of all ethnicities, skin concerns, skin types and ages from around the world. Patients were coming in more and more with manifestations they described as redness, itching, burning, breakouts, dryness, dullness…in other words; unhealthy skin. The dermatologists attribute these symptoms to one thing: a weakened barrier,” says Pardo.

There are a number of influences that can account for skin sensitivities, including environmental aggressors, climate change, traveling, lack of sleep, eating processed foods and coping with the stresses of daily life.  All of these culprits take a toll on the skin.  As a leader in treating dermatological concerns, Clinique felt a responsibility to reformulate the beloved and iconic Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion while preserving the qualities that made it so adored and essential to millions around the world.

Worth The Wait

It took six and a half years and a hundred formula trials to get the Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ just right. Clinique’s Product Development team worked together with Drs. David and Catherine Orentreich to review new ingredients and conducted meticulous testing before they approved “the one.”  The new formula underwent extensive clinical testing – the biggest Clinique has ever undertaken. 1,600 people of different ethnicities across 5 countries participated, including existing, lapsed and competitive users. The result:  Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ received the highest possible marks showing more than double the moisture levels with skin staying consistently comfortable and moisturized throughout the day. 

How It Works?

In order to accomplish its dual mission—to provide barrier strength and to boost the moisturizing efficiency, Clinique paired new formulating technology with ingredients that have a long dermatological heritage for efficiency and comfort.  Dr. Norman Orentreich insisted on using ingredients that work optimally with the skin.  Dr. David and Dr. Catherine Orentreich continue to advise using ingredients familiar to the skin because these are effective and are least likely to provoke irritation. 

The Barrier Repair Complex:

A blend of sunflower seed cake, barley extract and cucumber fruit extract that helps to strengthen the skin’s barrier, imparting resilience and resistance to environmental stresses to help achieve healthy looking skin.

The new moisturizing ingredients:

Hyaluronic Acid has been used in dermatology and medicine for years, and is well researched and proven effective as a moisture-binding ingredient. It occurs naturally in the body and helps skin hold onto moisture for improved hydration.

Glycerin is a well known humectant that attracts moisture to skin. Considered highly “hygroscopic,” it absorbs water from the surrounding air and thus contributes to the increased moisturization power of the new Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+.

Urea is a naturally occurring component in the production of skin’s own natural moisturizing factor (NMF). NMF ingredients mimic the function of healthy skin.

 “You can have the best moisturizer in the world, but if your barrier is not intact - moisture evaporates,” says Pardo. “The two actions, moisturizing and barrier-repair, go hand in hand.”

With improved moisturizing technology and new barrier-strengthening benefits, the new formula is Dramatically Different… but subtly done. So it is still the favourite yellow lotion with the same silky texture, it is now just Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+. 

Details.

The new Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ is a moisture drink that absorbs quickly and easily, leaving it smooth, soft and perfectly prepared for additional concern-driven serums and other treatment products. Or not. Many people find Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ just enough in itself.

Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+ will be available in across Clinique counters in the Middle East. Recommended for Skin Types 1 and 2. Apply morning and evening after Step 2, Clarifying Lotion. By day, follow with a moisturizer or foundation with SPF protection.

Allergy Tested. 100% Fragrance Free.

Hyperpigmentation, Ethnic Skin, & The Skin Doctor

When it comes to procedures such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion, and laser therapies, fact is one size doesn’t fit all. And the final responsibility falls on the shoulders of the dermatologists; they should take special precautions when treating patients with darker skin.

In my current practice in Jeddah, I see at least few patients every day who are seeking treatment for pigmentary complications that have been caused by patient’s exaggerated genetic tendencies to pigment coupled with prior cosmetic procedures performed by other physicians. Some I can treat, and some are beyond repair.

If I were to sum up my clinical experience, I would tell all dermatologists that above all, be conservative and don’t be aggressive especially when dealing with ethnic skin. Follow special protocol while treating skin of color and take your time in taking the patient’s history and establish if they have pigmentation prone skin type. The most important part of talk with the patient is asking about reaction to prior procedures or surgeries and prior history of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Take your time and ask them about what they do, what their hobbies are, or if they spend a lot of time outdoors. And take into account the season. During warmer temperatures, consider superficial peels and be careful with lasers. Medium peels and laser resurfacing are more appropriate during cooler and cloudier seasons.

Special Precautions While Treating Skin Of Color:

Don’t perform chemical peels on patients who are using tretinoin. Never start with a high concentration fruit acid peel. Don’t do excessive layers. And don’t combine surgical procedures with peels in the same visit.

When performing microdermabrasion, don’t be too aggressive to avoid PIH, streaking, and scratch marks. Don't perform the procedure too close to the eyes. Avoid extremely sensitive skin and look out for pressure urticaria. Always start with the lowest strength and time interval.

With fillers, be careful with superficial placement since the colored material can be seen through the skin. Hyaluronic acid is safer, because it’s colorless and less risky to use. Be mindful that severe bruising can lead to hemosiderin deposition. Be sure that all your patients are using sunscreen.

For laser and light therapies, always do a test spot. Have a solid understanding of laser-tissue interactions. Be prepared if pigmentation problems develop, so that you can treat them early.

Treatment Options

Aggressive and early intervention is crucial in treating side effects from cosmetic procedures.

·      One of the keys to prevent hyperpigmentation is UV protection, whether it’s with sunscreens, cosmetics, antioxidants such as topical vitamin C and E, or systemic agents such as chloroquine, fish oil, or green-tea extract.

·      Several topical agents can be used to treat hyperpigmentation e.g. hydroquinone, hydroquinone combinations, glycolic/retinoid/steroid combination, or antioxidants.

·      Niacinamide is a great cosmeceutical skin-lightening agents that act as a vitamin exfoliant, reducing melanosome transfer.

·      Soy-protease inhibitors and glutathione also have skin-lightening effects.

·      Melanozyme, Melaplex, Lumixyl (oligopeptide), retinaldehyde, lactic acid, ferrulic acid, can be good alternatives to hydroquinone but always prescribe bleaching agents with a broad spectrum sunscreen.

My favorite method of treating pigmentary complications is to combine treatments. For instance, I combine peels with microdermabrasion; peels with laser; and fractional resurfacing with topical regimens. The procedures can be maximized with the topical regimens. The bottom line is watching out for the skin reaction and aggressive as well as early intervention for side effects.

There’s no way of predicting who will hyperpigment, unless you take a good history and remember two pearls to stay out of trouble: Be conservative, and don’t use aggressive techniques.

Anti Aging Snap – Put Spring Back In Your Skin

Being actively linked with the aesthetic industry I am constantly researching beauty/skincare innovations and miracle concoctions -- What works, what’s mere smoke-‘n-mirrors and what’re chemical-beauty-nightmares you need to dodge.

Dill is the miracle green herb that has me intrigued for quiet sometime now. The more I research this lush bloom of a plant the bigger fan I am becoming. Here’s why dill is truly a wonderful plant as it has almost all vitamins and minerals that exist in nature: phosphorus, calcium, potassium, iron, folic acid, and vitamin A to name a few. Multiple studies have highlighted its antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, carminative, aromatic, and galactagogue properties. A study conducted by Cenizo et al. back in 2006, brought Dill’s elastogenesis promoting potential in skin plumping to light and since then beauty enthusiasts have added it to their must-use list to look young and fresh.

Aging Under The Microscope: As, you age the collagen and elastin tissues of our body (particularly, skin) stop replenishing. It’s important that you should get acquainted with elastin: The often-neglected cohort of collagen responsible for making young skin snap back when pinched, a key quality of firmness. Unfortunately, we stop making elastin around the time we hit puberty. But there is a silver lining to this cloudy news: Research has shown us we can always make more of it, especially by using natural antiaging ingredients like, dill extract.

You can reap the antioxidant and antiaging benefits of dill by adding it to your diet (btw Russians truly know the importance of this miraculous herb as almost every dish includes chopped dill) or you can slather your skin with topical skincare infused with dill and take advantage of it’s miraculous anti-aging effects.

Over The Counter Products Packed With Dill

·      Aveeno Ageless Vitality line

·      Kinerase Restructure Firming Cream

·      Prevage Day Intensive Anti-Aging Moisture Cream SPF 30

·      Astalift

·      Yonka Stimulastine Nuit

·      NOURISH Stress Repair Night Cream | Roc® Skincare

·      Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Eye Cream

·      Olay Professional Pro-X Intensive Firming Treatment Kit 

·      Nuxe Aroma Vaillance Enrichie Nourishing Deep Wrinkle Cream

Let's Talk Healthy Locks

Hair is always tricky: too short, too long, too frizzy, too flat, or simply not French enough add in dictation from the seasonal in-trends - super-straight sleek take your flatiron out right this minute or wear the sign I am with the band and you feel it’s a curl loosing battle you can never win. Fear not I am not trying to make you shave your mane off it’s actually a back to basics tress care intervention. Develop these seven daily hair care healthy habits and you can conquer braids, buns, gravity-defying volume or super swishy glam waves -- Simple Does It.

Break Bad Habits - Stress, smoking, and bad eating habits can make your hair dull and prone to breakage.

Practice Healthy: Eat healthy, splurge on veggies and drink plenty of water. Get enough sleep.

Avoid Breakage - Your hair is its most fragile when wet, so avoid excessive brushing or combing until it's most dry.

Heat Wave - Avoid using the hottest setting on your hair dryer, as it can be damaging to your strands, especially if you're pairing it with another hot tool, like a flat iron.

Animal Instinct - Use a natural-bristle brush, it is softer and more flexible, which means less damage to your hair.

Fight Frizz - After conditioning, rinse your hair with cold water. This helps to seal the cuticle, making it harder for moisture to enter the hair follicle, which can cause frizz.

Straight Talk - If you straighten your hair, start with an anti-frizz serum to create a moisture barrier and add a heat protectant to prevent your strands from being damaged while styling.

Say No To Alcohol - Avoid hair styling products (gel, mouse, hair spray) with alcohol content to prevent hair from drying. Also avoid heat protectants, products with fragrance, parabens and salt sprays.

Pump Up the Volume - Spritz a volumizing spray at your roots when your hair is dry, then flip your hair over and blow-dry. Finally, gently smooth out any stray strands with a brush.